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History Human
Prehistory
Rocks have attracted visitors to Arches National
Park for thousands of years. However, sightseeing has not been the main
activity for very long. Hunter-gatherers migrated into the area about
10,000 years ago at the end of the Ice Age. As they explored Courthouse
Wash and other areas in what is now Arches, they found pockets of chert
and chalcedony, microcrystalline quartz perfect for making stone tools.
Chipping or knapping these rocks into dart points, knives, and scrapers,
they created debris piles that are still visible to the trained eye.
Then, roughly two thousand years ago, the
nomadic hunters and gatherers began cultivating certain plants and settled
into the Four Corners region. These early agriculturalists, known as the
ancestral Puebloan and Fremont people, raised domesticated maize, beans,
and squash, and lived in villages like those preserved at Mesa Verde
National Park.
While no dwellings have been found in
Arches, the northern edge of ancestral Puebloan territory, there are rock
inscription panels. Like earlier people, the ancestral Puebloans left
lithic scatters, often overlooking waterholes where someone may have
shaped tools while watching for game. People living in modern-day pueblos
like Acoma, Cochiti, Santa Clara, Taos, and the Hopi Mesas are descendants
of the ancestral Puebloans.
The Fremont were contemporaries of the
ancestral Puebloans and lived in the same general area, so distinctions
between the two cultures are blurry. However, Fremont rock inscriptions,
pottery and other artifacts clearly demonstrate the existence of different
technologies and traditions. Both the Fremont and the ancestral Puebloans
left the region about 700 years ago.
As the ancestral Puebloan and Fre-mont
peoples were leaving, nomadic Shoshonean peoples such as the Ute and
Paiute entered the area and were here to meet the first Europeans in 1776.
The petroglyph panel near Wolfe Ranch is believed to have some Ute images
since it shows people on horseback, and horses were adopted by the Utes
only after they were introduced by the Spanish.
European History
The first
Europeans to explore the Southwest were Spaniards. As Spain’s New World
empire expanded, they searched for travel routes across the deserts to
their California missions. In fact, the Old Spanish Trail linking Santa Fe
and Los Angeles ran along the same route, past the park visitor center,
that the highway does today.
The first reliable date within Arches is an
interesting one. Denis Julien, a French-American trapper with a habit of
chiseling his name and the date onto rocks throughout the Southwest, left
an inscription in this area: Denis Julien, June 9, 1844. If we only knew
what he thought of the wonders he saw!
The first European settlement of Southern
Utah arose from the colonizing efforts of the Mormon Church. The Mormons
attempted to establish the Elk Mountain Mission in what is now Moab in
June of 1855, but conflicts with the Utes caused them to abandon the
effort. In the 1800s and 1890s, Moab was settled permanently by ranchers,
prospectors, and farmers. One settler even found a beautiful spot within
what is now Arches National Park. John Wesley Wolfe, a veteran of the
Civil War, built the homestead known as Wolfe Ranch around 1898, seeking
good fortune in the newly established State of Utah. It is located on Salt
Wash, at the beginning of the Delicate Arch Trail. Wolfe and his family
lived there a decade or more, then moved back to Ohio. The cabin remains,
an echo of what must have been a remarkable experience.
One of the earliest settlers to describe
the beauty of the red rock country around Arches was Loren “Bish”
Taylor, who took over the Moab newspaper in 1911 when he was eighteen
years old. Bish editorialized for years about the marvels of Moab, and
loved exploring and describing the rock wonderland just north of the
frontier town. Some of his journeys were with John “Doc” Williams,
Moab’s first doctor. As Doc rode his horse north to ranches and other
settlements, he often climbed out of Salt Valley to the spot now called
Doc Williams Point, stopped to let his horse rest and looked back over the
fabulously colored rock fins.
Word spread. Alexander Ringhoffer, a
prospector, wrote the Rio Grande Western Railroad in 1923 in an effort to
publicize the area and gain support for creating a national park.
Ringhoffer led railroad executives interested in attracting more rail
passengers into the formations; they were impressed, and the campaign
began. The government sent research teams to investigate and gather
evidence. In 1929, President Herbert Hoover signed the legislation
creating Arches National Monument, to protect the arches, spires, balanced
rocks, and other sandstone formations. In 1971 Congress changed the status
of Arches to a National Park, recognizing over 10,000 years of cultural
history that flourished in this now famous landscape of sandstone arches
and canyons.
Activities
Backpacking
Arches
is a relatively small park, with very few areas far enough from roads to
qualify as backcountry. Outside the developed areas there are no
designated trails, campsites, or reliable water sources. In
order to backpack in Arches, you must obtain a free backcountry permit at
the visitor center. The maximum group size is twelve, but smaller groups
are strongly recommended to reduce impacts. Permits may not be reserved in
advance. Backpackers should know how to navigate with a topographic map,
recognize safety hazards and practice low-impact camping specific to the
high desert. Primary safety considerations include steep terrain, loose
rock, lightning, flash floods, and dehydration. Pets
may not accompany groups in the backcountry.
Biking
In
Arches, bicycles are permitted only on roads: there is no single track or
trail riding within the park. Use caution when biking on the main road.
Please ride single file and stay to the edge of the lane. Many of the dirt
roads here are sandy or washboarded; however, the Willow Springs road
offers an enjoyable two to three hour ride.
Camping
The
Devils Garden campground is located eighteen miles from the park entrance
and is open year-round. From mid-March to late October, a $10 per night
fee is charged. From late October to mid-March, the fee is $5 per night.
Individual campsites are available on a
first-come, first-served basis only. From March to October, visitors must
pre-register for campsites at the entrance station. Pre-registration
begins at 7:30 a.m. (go to the visitor center if the entrance station is
closed). During these months, the campground fills daily, often by 9 a.m.
Campground facilities include potable
water, tables, grills as well as pit-style and flush toilets (water is
turned off during the winter months). There are no showers. Bring your own
wood or charcoal for the grills. Some sites will accommodate RV's up to 30
feet in length. Check at the visitor center for more information.
Group Sites
The campground has two sites for groups of eleven or more people. The Juniper Basin campsite will accommodate up to 55 people; the Canyon Wren campsite up to 35. The group camping fee is $3 per person per night, with a $33 per night minimum. No recreational vehicles or trailers are permitted in the group sites.
Group campsites may be reserved through NRRS year-round. Reservations must be made no less than 4 days and no more than 360 days in advance. Unreserved group campsites are available on a first-come, first-served basis on the day of arrival. To make a reservation, visit
www.ReserveUSA.com, or phone NRRS at (877) 444-6777, (877) 833-6777
(TDD), or (518) 885-3639.
Climbing
The rock at Arches offers excellent
climbing opportunities, despite its sandy nature. Most climbing routes in
the park require advanced techniques. Permits are not required, unless the
trip involves an overnight stay in the backcountry.
It the responsibility of all climbers to
know and obey park regulations and route closures (see left margin).
Regulations
- Use of motorized drills is prohibited.
- Climbing is prohibited on any arch
identified on current USGS 7.5 minute topographical maps; on Balanced
Rock year-round; on Bubo from January 1st to June 30th; on Industrial
Disease on the Devil Dog Spire from January 1st to June 30th.
- The use of chalk for climbing must be of
a color which blends with the native rock.
- Climbers are encouraged to employ
clean-climbing ethics, leave dull-colored webbing when recovery is
impossible, and access climbing routes via established trails,
slickrock or sandy washes.
Hiking
Easy Trails
Balanced
Rock
A loop trail around the base of a fragile, picturesque rock
formation.
Starting Point: Balanced Rock parking area
Length: 0.3 mile (0.5 km) round trip
Time: 15 to 30 minutes
Broken Arch
Starting Point: Sand Dune Arch parking area
or Devils Garden campground across from campsite #40
Length: 1.2 miles (2 km) round trip; 2 miles (3.2 km) including the
loop
Time: 30 to 60 minutes
From the Sand Dune Arch parking area, the trail cuts across a large meadow
to the arch and continues to the campground. Loop trail leads through fin
canyons with sand dunes and slickrock.
Delicate Arch
Viewpoint
Starting Point: Delicate Arch Viewpoint
parking area
Length: 100 yards (91 meters) round trip
Time: 10 to 15 minutes
In addition to the short accessible trail, another (moderately strenuous)
hiking trail climbs one-half mile (0.8 km) toward Delicate Arch and ends
at the rim of a steep canyon that separates the viewpoint from the arch.
(This is not the popular trail to Delicate Arch, which starts at the Wolfe
Ranch parking area.)
Desert Nature Trail
Starting Point: Arches Visitor Center
Length: 0.2 mile (0.3 km) round trip
Time: 15 to 30 minutes
Discover the adaptations of plants and animals in the desert on a
self-guided nature walk. Trail guide available at the trailhead.
Double Arch
Starting Point: Double Arch parking area
Length: 0.5 mile (0.8 km) round trip
Time: 15 to 30 minutes
A relatively flat, sandy trail leads to the base of two giant arch spans
which are joined at one end.
Landscape Arch
Starting Point: Devils Garden trailhead
parking area
Length: 2 miles (3.2 km) round trip
Time: 30 to 60 minutes
A relatively flat, gravel-surfaced trail (usually heavily populated with
hikers) leads to a spectacular ribbon of rock, whose span is more than a
football field in length. Short side trips to Tunnel and Pine Tree Arches.
Trail guide available at trailhead.
Sand Dune Arch
Starting Point: Sand Dune Arch parking area
Length: 0.4 mile (0.6 km) round trip
Time: 15 to 30 minutes
Trail leads through deep sand to a secluded arch among sandstone fins.
Skyline Arch
Starting Point: Skyline Arch parking area
Length: 0.4 mile (0.6 km) round trip
Time: 10 to 20 minutes
A short hike on a flat, well-defined trail. On a cold November night in
1940, a large chunk fell out of the arch, instantly doubling the size of
its opening.
The
Windows
Starting Point: Windows parking area
Length: 1 mile (1.6 km) round trip
Time: 30 to 60 minutes
A gentle climb up a gravel loop trail leads to three massive arches (North
and South Windows and Turret Arch). An alternate return, slightly longer,
is by way of the primitive loop around the back of the two Windows. The
primitive loop trail starts at the South Window viewpoint.
Moderate Trails
Park
Avenue Trail
Starting Point: Park Avenue parking area
Ending Point: Courthouse Towers parking area
Length: 1 mile (1.6 km) one way
Time: 30 to 60 minutes
Elevation change: 320 feet (98 meters)
From Park Avenue parking area, the trail descends steeply into a
spectacular canyon and continues down the wash to Courthouse Towers. If
you have a shuttle driver, you can begin at one point and be picked up at
the other. For round-trip hiking, retrace your steps along the trail
rather than walk along the park road.
Tower Arch
Starting Point: Klondike Bluffs parking area, via
the Salt Valley road
Length: 3.4 miles (5.6 km) round trip
Time: 2 to 3 hours
The trail climbs a steep, but short, rock wall, cuts across a valley and
then meanders through sandstone fins and sand dunes. An alternate, shorter
trail (0.3 mile [0.4 km] one way), begins at the end of the
four-wheel-drive road on the west side of Tower Arch. This unpaved road
washes out quickly in rainstorms; inquire at the visitor center about road
conditions before heading out.
Long Trails
Delicate Arch
Starting
Point: Wolfe Ranch parking area
Length: 3 miles (4.8 km) round trip
Time: 2 to 3 hours
Elevation change: 480 feet (146 meters)
Take at least 1 quart (1 liter) of water per person! There is no shade.
Open slickrock with some exposure to heights. The first half-mile is a
wide, well-defined trail. Upon reaching the slickrock, follow the rock
cairns. The trail climbs gradually and levels out toward the top of this
rock face. Just before you get to Delicate Arch, the trail goes along a
rock ledge for about 200 yards.
Devils Garden Primitive Loop
Starting Point: Devils Garden Trailhead
parking area
Length: 7.2 miles (11.5 km) round trip, including all points of
interest
Time: 3 to 5 hours
Longest of the maintained trails in the park, the Devils Garden Trail
leads to eight awe-inspiring arches. Expect narrow ledges with rocky
surface hiking and scrambling on slickrock. Not recommended when rock is
wet or snowy. Trail guide available at trailhead.
Double O Arch
Starting Point: Devils Garden Trailhead
parking area
Length: 4 miles (6.4 km) round trip
Time: 2 to 3 hours
Beyond Landscape Arch, the trail becomes more challenging as it climbs
over sandstone slabs; footing is rocky; there are narrow ledges with
exposure to heights. Spur trails lead to Partition and Navajo Arches. Dark
Angel is one-half mile (0.8 km) farther. Trail guide available at
trailhead.
Fiery
Furnace
The Fiery Furnace is a labyrinth of narrow sandstone
canyons and fins. There are no marked trails and the area has suffered
resource damage due to increased visitation. Visitors who want to
explore the Fiery Furnace must obtain a hiking permit at the visitor
center (fee charged) and watch a minimum impact video. All groups are
encouraged to sign up for a ranger-guided hike.
Photography
Arches
is a photographer's paradise. The combination of brilliant colors and
unique landforms (many close to the scenic drive), lends itself to
picture-taking. In fact, many features of Arches, especially Delicate
Arch, can be seen on posters and advertisements around the world.
Though there are great spots throughout the park, here are
some recommended locations for visitors who like to leave the scouting to
someone else:
Early Morning
Moab Fault, The Three Gossips, Sheep Rock, The Great Wall, Turret Arch,
The Spectacles, Double Arch, Cache Valley, Wolfe Ranch, Double O Arch,
Landscape Arch.
Late Afternoon
Park Avenue, Courthouse Towers, Petrified Dunes, Balanced Rock, The Garden
of Eden, North and South Windows, Delicate Arch, Fiery Furnace, Skyline
Arch, Fins in Devils Garden, Tower Arch.
Ranger Programs
Fiery
Furnace Walks
Rangers lead walks into the Fiery Furnace twice each day,
once in the morning and once in the afternoon. These 2.5 to 3 hour hikes
are moderately strenuous, requiring the occasional use of hands to
scramble through narrow cracks and along narrow ledges. Visitors are
encouraged to accompany a ranger for safety and to reduce impacts. In
order to visit the Fiery Furnace without a ranger, visitors must obtain a
permit (fee charged) at the visitor center.
In order to support the
program, fees are now charged for Fiery Furnace walks. The cost is $6 for
adults; $3 for children six to twelve years old and adults sixty-two or
older. Group size is limited, and these popular walks often fill a day or
two in advance. Make your reservation and pay your fee at the visitor
center up to seven days in advance of the walk, and for groups of no more
than ten people. Larger groups can request a special tour by contacting
the park; a minimum of four weeks' notice is advised.
Other Guided Walks
Rangers lead easy, one-hour
walks each day at different locations throughout the park.
Evening Programs
Join a ranger at the Devils
Garden campground amphitheater (next to Canyon Wren group campsite and
across the road from campsite #25) nightly. Programs last about forty-five
minutes.
Scenic Drive
The
road system in Arches passes many outstanding natural features. As Arches'
popularity has increased, people have begun to park in areas that damage
plants and sometimes endanger other visitors. Please park in established
lots only. Generally, parking spaces are easier to find before 9 a.m. and
after 7 p.m.
Drive to the Windows Section
and see some of the park's largest arches. (Add one-half hour to stroll
beneath either North Window or Double Arch.).
or...
Drive to the Delicate Arch Viewpoint and see the world's most famous arch,
a mile distant. Stop at Wolfe Ranch on your way back and imagine what it
would have been like to homestead this relatively barren area in the late
1800s.
Junior
Ranger Program
Hey Kids! Tired of
just sitting in the car, looking at that stuff adults call scenery? Do you
want to know more about Arches and help protect the park? Then
the Junior Ranger program is for you! If you
are between the ages of six and twelve, and you are planning to spend at
least one day in Arches, pick up a Junior Ranger booklet at the visitor
center.
You must complete several activities in the booklet, like word games,
drawings and fill-in-the-blanks about why you shouldn't chase or catch
lizards. You must also gather a bag of litter or bring twenty aluminum
cans to be recycled and attend a ranger program or watch the slide program
at the visitor center. It's that simple!
Once you're finished, you can pick up your badge at the
visitor center.
Becoming a Junior Ranger is a serious and important task, but it's lots of
fun too! Check it out!
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